How Safe is Aluminum wire?
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Aluminum wire is still approved by the N.E.C. But this on the assumption that everything will be done perfect. Having said that i would like to give a little advice on using aluminum wire when you are building a new home. For the sake of saving a few dollars, it is not worth the safety hazard you face when using this wire. This is not only my opinion but the opinion of many others in the trade. Many times i have been called to repair corroded connections using this wire. Most of the time the aluminum wire had to be replaced with copper. One other piece of advice, before you consider buying a home with aluminum wire you might want to check with the insurance company. Some of them may refuse to insure a house with aluminum wire.
There are a lot of homes that have been wired with aluminum wiring and it would not be financially possible to rewire the entire house or service. There are a few things you can do to make sure that the wiring is not becoming a problem. You should be on the lookout for devices or lighting going on and off. Breakers or outlets overheating. Have the main panel checked for corrosion or loose connections. When adding copper devices or wire to aluminum, make sure this work is done by someone who knows the proper procedure for this type of wiring. A little preventative maintenance can go a long way in preventing future safety hazards.
Where Are GFI’s Required?
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As with any electrical work needed to be done in your home, the safest route is to always have a licensed electrical contractor complete the work. This not only ensure the work is code compliant but it guarantees the work will be completed properly. For a quote, or more information on GFI’s call Ring Electric Inc. at (613)299-8239 or visit www.ringelectric.ca
Any bathroom or garage outlet within 6′ of a sink must be GFCI protected. The code also requires all kitchen outlets for countertop use to be GFCI protected. GFCI outlets must be installed in any area where electricity and water may come into contact, including basements, pools, spas, utility rooms, attached garages and outdoors. At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement and for most outdoor outlets.
The are two types of GFCIs in homes, the GFCI outlet and the GFCI circuit breaker. Both do the same job, but each has different applications and limitations.
The GFCI outlet is actually a replacement for a standard electrical outlet. A GFCI is not dependent of a ground to function. It does not measure shorts to the ground, it measures the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. A sudden difference of 5 ma. or more, indicating that there is another path for the electricity to flow through will trip this device. The only downside to this is there may be some nuisance tripping in highly inductive loads like large motors or even fluorescent lamps or fixtures on the same circuit. But the newer models seemed to have corrected this somewhat.
It protects any appliance plugged into it, and can also be wired to protect other outlets that are connected to it. The GFCI circuit breaker controls an entire circuit, and is installed as a replacement for a circuit breaker on your home’s main circuit board. Rather than install multiple GFCI outlets, one GFCI circuit breaker can protect the entire circuit. There is a test button and a reset button on these units. If you press the test button the reset should pop out. To reset just push the reset button in.
Not a good idea to put lights on GFCI. protected circuits so you aren’t left in the dark if the circuit trips. Generally, equipment such as refrigerators, freezers and sump pumps that cannot go without electrical power for an extended period of time without causing costly losses or property damage should not be placed on a GFCI. protected circuit. GFCIs are very sensitive and are subject to nuisance tripping. GFCI receptacles don’t last outdoors even under the best of conditions. Be sure to test the device using the “test” button before you use one.
As of January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code , Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125V, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault Circuit interrupter. Eventually they will be in more areas but the bedroom is a good place to start.
The AFCI. (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker, will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker.
Is Your Air Conditioner Causing the Breaker to Trip?
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Are you having this problem with your air conditioner? Or a similar situation in Ottawa? If so, call Ring Electric Inc. at (613)299-8239 for a FREE quote on how we can eliminate this problem for you!
Question: I live in a 60 year old co-op condo with a dedicated 220 volt line for a new 22,000 btu in wall air conditioner. There is an outlet with a 20amp breaker wired to it approx 18 inches off the floor. A new single 220 volt outlet was tapped off the outlet from the floor and put underneath the a/c which is approx 5 feet off the floor. The breaker trips occasionally. The voltage ranges around 210 volts and 12.2 amps taking a reading from the outlet near the floor. Only the a/c is on this line, and I’ve tried plugging the a/c in the top and bottom outlet at different times, and the breaker trips with both. #12 wire was used to feed the new (top) outlet. Is it as simple as a bad breaker?
Air Conditioner Load and Tripping Circuit Breaker
If the original outlet is still in place is there a possibility that it is being used as well by another device? If so this may be contributing to the problem and it would be best if the original outlet was removed, then splice the circuit through and install a blank cover. If the 12.2 amp reading is correct then there may be a bad circuit breaker, however the air conditioner may be loading up and creating an overloaded condition as well. If the amperage load shows 12.2 at the time when the circuit breaker trips off then the circuit breaker will need to be replaced.
Smart Shopping For Hydro Ottawa
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In its new platform, the Progressive Conservative party vows to make smart-metering optional. That’s a valid position, so long as it doesn’t create unnecessary costs to the whole system. What’s not valid is the party’s smearing of the idea. Aren’t conservatives supposed to like the idea of prices linked to supply and demand?
Just as roses are more valuable on Feb. 14 than on Feb. 15, power is more valuable at 5 p.m. than at midnight. Extra demand creates strain on the system, which means it has to use or import power that might not be as clean as its main sources. It also means the whole system has to be big enough to accommodate the biggest possible peak-hour usage -which means building more costly nuclear plants or wind turbines. That’s why it’s in everyone’s interest to moderate power usage. And price incentives make sense. Instead of punishing everyone by charging them the same rate as those who waste electricity in peak hours, smart meters reward people for doing the right thing.
The Tory platform is dishonest: “We will stop forcing families to be showered and ready for school and work before 7 a.m. or compelling seniors to do laundry late into the night.” Nobody’s “forcing” or “compelling” anyone to do anything. Just as the price-conscious can save their shopping for Boxing Day, they can save their laundry for the evening -if they like. Seniors, like everyone else, can do their laundry whenever they please. If they do it after 7 p.m. or on a weekend, they’ll save a few cents per kilowatt hour.
The Liberals bear a lot of the blame for the bad rap smart meters are getting. The initial results suggest that for many users, any savings are offset by other factors pushing up hydro prices. It could be that the prices aren’t set at the right levels, or users haven’t yet changed their habits enough. This program could work, but only if the government makes sure it works properly.
A party that really wanted to serve taxpayers would promise to create a smart-meter system that people will want to use because it actually does what it promises: saves them money.
Home Lighting Tips for Your Ottawa Home!
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To get the proper home lighting takes some planning. You have to make sure that it’s not too bright and not too dim. For advice from an expert call Ring Electric Inc. at (613)299-8239 for a FREE quote on your lighting in your Ottawa home!
Only when you get it wrong will you notice that you feel uncomfortable. It’s easy to design lighting that is safe, attractive and pleasant to work in when you know the right steps to take.
The two most common types of lighting found in the home are incandescent and fluorescent. Incandescent light is warm and yellow, and is preferred for most general task lighting.
It can also be controlled by dimmer switches to allow better regulation of the amount of light from a given fixture. On the down side, incandescenthome lighting is one of the least energy efficient forms of lighting, and also produces a substantial amount of heat.
Fluorescent light is soft and diffuses well over a larger area than incandescent, producing virtually shadow-free light. It is more economical to operate than incandescent light, producing three to five times as much light from the same wattage.
Fluorescent home lighting is naturally white, but tube coatings can be used to create a warmer, less harsh light. The tubes also produce virtually no heat during operation, but dimmer control is limited and comparatively expensive.
There are three basic levels of home lighting, depending on the location and the desired use of the lighted area. Low level lighting, such as that for TV watching or general relaxing, should be in the 40-to-60-watt range for an incandescent light, or 16 to 22 watts for fluorescents.
Moderate level lighting is common for short term use, or for easy-seeing applications like eating, exercising, and other general tasks. It is typically in the range of 120 to 150 watts (combined in one or more fixtures), or about 30 to 44 watts of fluorescent light.
The third level is high, for prolonged use or tasks where seeing is difficult, such as reading fine print or doing intricate hobbies. This level calls for approximately 180 to 300 watts of incandescent light, or 45 watts and greater of fluorescent light.
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In-law suites are usually generated from three major types ofremodeling, the basement remodel, the garage conversion and the suite addition. These are the most widely used plans. No matter which one of these projects you choose, you need to ask these question. For a FREE quote on the electrical system for your In-Law Suite call Ring Electric Inc. at (613)299-8239!
1) Are There Any Covenants or Restriction to Keep You From Building a Mother-in-Law Suite?
Check with your subdivision, city and/or your county to see if they will allow two separate households to reside at the same address. You may be able to use same address “front, rear or side”. Even if you don’t need a permit to build your in-law suite always ask this question. Is there any public entity that may have judgment over your “zoning” privileges? Zoning can specifically define the use of your property.
2) Are Your Existing Utilities Sufficient For A Mother In Law Suite?
This could be a big one. Check the utilities of your existing home, to include the electrical service (power panel), the plumbing (both waste and water supply) and the heating/ cooling system to see if they are large enough to handle the new in-law suite.
3) Hiring An Architect?
Remember that this space is for home care for a senior or other loved one. You’ve got one shot so get it right the first time. You may also need an architect’s seal on the drawing for the building permits. He will also make sure you meet compliance for emergency and secondary egress. Realtor’s see clients shocked after spending hard earned money to remodel and find that without the correct window size or walk out, that it does not qualify for “living space”. That could mean a big fat zero gain when you list your home for sale.
4) Getting Estimates
The documents the architect produces gives you a devise to obtain complete estimates with fewer duplications and/or omissions. Getting three estimates is standard operating procedure. Give the contractor two weeks or fourteen working days for a bid dead line. Put it in writing. Remember this is a buyers market. Be sure to have a schedule including a start date, a completion date and a payment schedule. Most contractors use the one-third system. Once again get it in writing, one-third on starting, one-third at the middle of the schedule, and one-third on completion. Get lien waivers from the general contractor as well as his sub-contractors and suppliers. Make sure the big ticket items are paid for, such as the ac-unit, copper wire and power panel box, bath tub with surround, roll-in shower, doors and windows, flooring, etc. Make their certificate of insurance for liability and worker comp part of the contract. One last thing you might want to get in writing is to make sure they supply a port-a-potty. This will help to keep your bathrooms clean during the construction.
5) Choosing The Right Contractor for Your Project
Pick a contractor that you feel at ease with. Check his references. Check all of them. How long has he/she been in business? Ask friends, neighbors and even your city about them. Use the Better Business Bureau. They may have a record of any complaints about them and how the complaints were handled. You must be sure that your contractor is trustworthy, responsible and prompt. This is a time of quick decision and close working space. If you ask lots of question, do your homework, and choose wisely, you have a pretty good shot at enjoying the construction of your mother-in-law suite.
Needing to Wire Up Your Hot Tub in Ottawa?
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The wiring of a hot tub is a difficult process to understand, especially if you are unaware of the equipment and devices used in a spa. There are a number of things to consider before having your hot tub wired and the person you choose to perform the wiring needs to be reliable. In almost all jurisdictions, the wiring of a hot tub must be completed by a licensed and insured electrical contractor (electrician). For a FREE quote on the electrical work needed for your Hot Tub in Ottawa call Ring Electric Inc, at (613)299-8239.
Just in case you aren’t convinced, here are a few reasons explaining why the wiring cannot be performed by the owner or an unlicensed professional:
- Wiring a hot tub could result in electrocution, if the wiring was performed incorrectly.
- If the individual is a professional, but is unlicensed, they are virtually not responsible for any mishaps or damages to your hot tub during the wiring process.
- Any unlicensed individual who attempts to perform the wiring without a license runs the risk of being fined, imprisoned or sued for performing the job without a license.
That said, unless you are planning to get your electrician’s license or you already have one but need to understand the process better, there is really no reason to spend time trying to figure it out.
It is difficult to understand the cycle fully and there are many things you need to know before you even touch the wiring in your hot tub. For the most part, it is best to leave this part of the hot tub installation to a licensed professional. Messing with the wiring of your hot tub cannot only result in personal bodily harm, but it can also completely damage your hot tub beyond the point of repair.
There are a number of licensed professionals competing for your business. Knowing it has been done correctly is worth the price.
How NOT to Wire a Pool Pump in Ottawa!
How To Know If Something Has Tripped!
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Knowing what caused a possible trip in your electrical can be difficult to determine sometimes. Below are some options to try first before calling an electrician. If the below mentioned options do not solve the problem call Ring Electric Inc., at (613)299-8239! Quotes are always free!
The location of possible tripped devices is not limited to your main panel. Besides reset buttons on garbage disposals, water heaters, and on some in-wall heaters, there can be circuit breakers or fuses in a subpanel far from the main panel. Look in basements, closets, utility rooms and behind pictures, mirrors, and doors. If you have a box of generator switches, one of those might have been knocked off accidentally.
Rather than a fuse or breaker, a ground-fault interrupter (GFI) receptacle could have tripped. My hints for looking for these devices relate to the rooms they are commonly in. Also, at a dead outlet there is a Test you can make to tell you how likely it is that it is dead from a GFI that is tripped somewhere else.
Suppose you are at your main panel or subpanel or a fusebox. Can you easily tell (from looking) that nothing is tripped or blown? The answer is NO. If something is obviously tripped or blown, fine (although it could represent an ancient problem someone else gave up on long ago — not your present problem). No, very often something can be tripped or blown and be hard to detect. The surest way to find out is to Test for hotness at the circuit wire where it leaves the breaker or fuse terminal; that terminal screw itself is usually just as good a place to test.
If you are avoiding this test from a concern about safety, a second best procedure is to very firmly push the handle of every breaker in turn firmly to full “off”, so that it perhaps even clicks in place, and then firmly click it to “on” — but don’t be holding it on, especially if it is buzzing or humming. This is the right procedure for resetting any breaker. “Flip the breaker back and forth” is simple-minded and misleading.
A third best attempt is simply to weakly press each breaker handle a little more toward on (or later toward off, but without turning it off) and notice if one breaker seemed to have more give or play to it than the others; then do the off-then-on procedure just on it, remembering which one it is.
Ever Wonder How to Read Your Electrical Meter in Ottawa?
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Check out this article on meter reading if you think your Hydro bill might be higher then it should be. For a FREE quote on how you can lower your electricity bill call Ring Electric at (613)299-8239. Why pay more if you do not have to.
www.ringelectric.ca
Meter Reading
There are several types of electricity meters that in the end do the same thing: measure the electricity used in your home or business.
All electrical services are measured for energy consumption, also referred to as kilowatt-hours (kWh), using a kilowatt-hour meter, which either looks like a car odometer or a series of dials. Larger commercial customers are measured for the power capacity or demand in kilowatt (kW) or kilovolt-ampere (kVA) units, using a meter that looks like a car speedometer, called a demand meter. An electronic meter may be installed which has a scrolling digital display which would show all three quantities, kWh, kW and kVA.
By law, according to the “Electricity and Gas Inspection Act”, it is mandatory that these meters be accurate and stay accurate while measuring your electricity use for billing purposes. That is why meters go through at least two accuracy checks during their life:
- First, Measurement Canada, a federal government agency, tests the manufacturer’s prototype meter for performance, reliability and accuracy and approves the meter design if it passes the type approval.
- Second, each meter used for billing purposes is verified and sealed by the government or Measurement Canada accredited meter service centre such as Hydro Ottawa, before it is put into service.
When your electricity bill seems high, stop and think of the reasons why. Maybe more energy was used because of, for example, a new baby in the family, more people staying with you, a cold snap causing your heating system to work overtime, a heat wave causing your cooling system to work overtime, you added an appliance, or a hot water tap was leaking and draining your electric water heater. Also, if your bill is estimated, maybe the estimate does not reflect your true usage and all you need to do is read the meter — we’ll show you how.
How it Works
The kilowatt-hour meter is designed to reliably, and accurately measure the electrical energy (kWh) used in your home or place of business.
When you look at the face of a kilowatt-hour meter, across the middle you will see a metal horizontal disc that turns when energy is being used. This disc is designed to turn like a motor wheel when energy passes through the meter, and it is calibrated so that one rotation of the disc corresponds to a specific number of kilowatt-hours. This means that depending on the meter make or type, one meter may spin twice as fast as another to register the same kilowatt-hours.
In any case, the disc will turn faster when more energy is used; you can really notice the difference in disc speed when, for example, a refrigerator or a heating unit turns on and off. With dial type meters, also known as the clock type, when the disk rotates it turns a series of gears to successively move the pointers on the dials. Each dial turns in the opposite direction to the one next to it. Similarly, with the old digital type meters, the disc turns a series of gears to successively move the digit wheel (cyclometer); however, unlike the dial type, each digit wheel rotates in the same direction. Each wheel or dial is numbered all the way around from “0″ to “9″.
When you are looking at the face of the meter, the first dial (or wheel) on the right must go around once before the pointer (or digit) on the dial immediately to its left (the second dial), moves to the next digit. The first dial has to go around ten times before the second dial goes around once. When the first dial has gone around 100 times, the second dial would have gone around 10 times, and the third dial’s pointer would have only moved to the next digit. This goes on and on, adding up the energy used until the meter eventually starts back at zero like an odometer on a car. The difference between two meter readings is the amount of energy (kilowatt-hours) used.
The kilowatt meter and kilovolt-ampere meter measure the power (demand) delivered to the facility being metered averaged over a short duration of time. These facilities are larger users of power than residential or small commercial energy users.
The demand meter looks like a speedometer on a car, but with two pointers. The red pointer moves up and down the scale depending on how fast the energy is being used (the demand). As the red pointer moves up the scale, it pushes the black pointer with it, leaving it behind to mark the highest usage measured before moving down the scale. The black pointer is reset to zero by the utility meter reader after each monthly reading, and the cycle goes on. More often than not, the kilowatt-hour meter and the demand meter are combined into one meter, like the one shown here.
